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The Glossary is intended to explain English Textile Jargon. It will grow steadily as time and opportunity permit. The "Definitions" are what I understand the terms to mean, nothing more. Over the course of 30-odd years in the textile business, I have had many good teachers, and am still learning daily. If you encounter a term that you would like me to "define" please
send me an e-mail message and I will do my best. The same applies if you think a definition is wrong!

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Term
Abbreviation
Meaning
Usage
Basket weave  A fabric woven 1end up, 1 end down. Guess where the basket weave originated! 
Basket weave  A fabric woven 1end up, 1 end down. Guess where the basket weave originated! 
Body  The fullness of a fabric. This is a subjective quality pertaining to a lack of limpness and/or stiffness. A fabric is said to have good body when it has a full, rich, supple hand. This fabric has good body to it. 
Body  The fullness of a fabric. This is a subjective quality pertaining to a lack of limpness and/or stiffness. A fabric is said to have good body when it has a full, rich, supple hand. This fabric has good body to it. 
Brushing  A finishing process whereby the surface of the fabric is scratched to pull fibers up from the yarn and produce a soft, fuzzy surface. Often confused with sueding. Flannelette is brushed. 
Brushing  A finishing process whereby the surface of the fabric is scratched to pull fibers up from the yarn and produce a soft, fuzzy surface. Often confused with sueding. Flannelette is brushed. 
Cotton Count CC The number of 840 yard lengths (of spun yarn) per pound. Thus, a 1’s CC yarn is 840 yards per pound, whereas a 20’s CC is 16,800 yards per pound. T-shirts are commonly made with 20’s CC yarn. 
Cotton Count CC The number of 840 yard lengths (of spun yarn) per pound. Thus, a 1’s CC yarn is 840 yards per pound, whereas a 20’s CC is 16,800 yards per pound. T-shirts are commonly made with 20’s CC yarn. 
Creep  The degree (usually expressed in %) to which a spandex fabric contracts when all tension is removed (i.e. unrolled). This is not to be confused with the more common descriptive usage, where the term is applied pejoratively to an acquaintance! 6% spandex fabrics typically creep x%. 
Creep  The degree (usually expressed in %) to which a spandex fabric contracts when all tension is removed (i.e. unrolled). This is not to be confused with the more common descriptive usage, where the term is applied pejoratively to an acquaintance! 6% spandex fabrics typically creep x%. 
Crocking  The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This problem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often a problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dyehouse. The red crocks, but the blue does not. 
Crocking  The transfer of dye stuff from one fabric to another by friction. This problem is usually worse with darker shades. Reds are often a problem in this respect. This is a dyeing problem and can be dealt with in the dyehouse. The red crocks, but the blue does not. 
Cuttable width  The maximum width that can be cut. The cuttable width is 58". 
Cuttable width  The maximum width that can be cut. The cuttable width is 58". 
Decitex d'tex The weight in grams of 10,000 m of (filament) yarn. This fabric is woven from 1100 d’tex polyester yarn. 
Decitex d'tex The weight in grams of 10,000 m of (filament) yarn. This fabric is woven from 1100 d’tex polyester yarn. 
Denier The weight in grams of 9000 m of (filament) yarn. This measure is still commonly used in the USA, but in the metric world, it has been generally replaced by tex (and/or d’tex). Normally used only for filament yarn. This yarn is available in 1260 denier. 
Denier The weight in grams of 9000 m of (filament) yarn. This measure is still commonly used in the USA, but in the metric world, it has been generally replaced by tex (and/or d’tex). Normally used only for filament yarn. This yarn is available in 1260 denier. 
Double Knit  A fabric formed with the stitches in two planes at right angles to each other. Double knits are generally more stable than single knits, but less so than wovens. 
Double Knit  A fabric formed with the stitches in two planes at right angles to each other. Double knits are generally more stable than single knits, but less so than wovens. 
Doubled-and-rolled  Folded in half lengthwise and rolled on a flat board, thus making a "Bolt" as commonly in Retail fabric stores, tailor shops, etc. Used only for "short" pieces. Pronounced "double 'n roll". The tailor shop was full of double-and-rolled goods. 
Doubled-and-rolled  Folded in half lengthwise and rolled on a flat board, thus making a "Bolt" as commonly in Retail fabric stores, tailor shops, etc. Used only for "short" pieces. Pronounced "double 'n roll". The tailor shop was full of double-and-rolled goods. 
Drape  The way a fabric hangs (on a body). This fabric drapes beautifully. 
Drape  The way a fabric hangs (on a body). This fabric drapes beautifully. 
End  A warp yarn. This is a 126 end (per inch) fabric. 
End  A warp yarn. This is a 126 end (per inch) fabric. 
Herringbone  A broken twill, vis. The direction of the twill is reversed at regular intervals, producing a pattern of nested V's. Herringbones are frequently seen in mens' and womens' suitings. 
Herringbone  A broken twill, vis. The direction of the twill is reversed at regular intervals, producing a pattern of nested V's. Herringbones are frequently seen in mens' and womens' suitings. 
Hopsack  A fabric woven with 2 ends up and 2 ends down. Cotton Oxford is generally a hopsack weave. 
Hopsack  A fabric woven with 2 ends up and 2 ends down. Cotton Oxford is generally a hopsack weave. 
Jacquard  A pattern knit or woven into a fabric; either a surface effect, or a pattern produced with coloured yarns. In common useage, jacquards tend to be heavier patterns than pointelles. Jacquards come and go in popularity - like everything else! 
Jacquard  A pattern knit or woven into a fabric; either a surface effect, or a pattern produced with coloured yarns. In common useage, jacquards tend to be heavier patterns than pointelles. Jacquards come and go in popularity - like everything else! 
Latent defect  A defect which is present, but not fairly visible or detectable under reasonable examination. Disputes are common over latent defects! 
Latent defect  A defect which is present, but not fairly visible or detectable under reasonable examination. Disputes are common over latent defects! 
Metamerism  An effect whereby different colours (i.e. shades) look the same (or the same shade looks different) under various conditions. The term "Observer metamerism" is used when two swatches appear to some observers (or instruments) to have the same colour, but to other observers the same swatches do not match. 
Metamerism  An effect whereby different colours (i.e. shades) look the same (or the same shade looks different) under various conditions. The term "Observer metamerism" is used when two swatches appear to some observers (or instruments) to have the same colour, but to other observers the same swatches do not match. 
Napped  Generally used as a synonym for "Brushed." Flannelette is napped. 
Napped  Generally used as a synonym for "Brushed." Flannelette is napped. 
Neps  Small bundle of tangled undeveloped cotton fibres. The undeveloped cotton does not take dyestuff, and thus neps appear as small white dots in fabric. Normally used in the plural, as you seldom find just one nep. This fabric is full of neps! 
Neps  Small bundle of tangled undeveloped cotton fibres. The undeveloped cotton does not take dyestuff, and thus neps appear as small white dots in fabric. Normally used in the plural, as you seldom find just one nep. This fabric is full of neps! 
Patent defect  A defect which is apparent under reasonable examination. Holes are a patent defect. 
Patent defect  A defect which is apparent under reasonable examination. Holes are a patent defect. 
Pick  A weft yarn. How many picks per inch in that fabric? 
Pick  A weft yarn. How many picks per inch in that fabric? 
Piece goods  Textiles. Fabric; either woven or knit, not not non-wovens. Sometimes used to distinguish doubled-and rolled from rolled goods in Retail textiles. He sells piece goods for a living, poor fellow! 
Piece goods  Textiles. Fabric; either woven or knit, not not non-wovens. Sometimes used to distinguish doubled-and rolled from rolled goods in Retail textiles. He sells piece goods for a living, poor fellow! 
Plain weave  A fabric woven 1end up, 1 end down. Men's dress shirts are generally of plain woven fabric (broadcloth). 
Plain weave  A fabric woven 1end up, 1 end down. Men's dress shirts are generally of plain woven fabric (broadcloth). 
Pointelle  A pattern, usually feminine, knit into a fabric. This top is from a rib pointelle. 
Pointelle  A pattern, usually feminine, knit into a fabric. This top is from a rib pointelle. 
Polynosic  Polynosic is a high wet modulus rayon. To the consumer, the main difference between ordinary rayon and polynosic is that the latter is MACHINE WASHABLE (and dryable)! And here we have a similar fabric in polynosic. 
Polynosic  Polynosic is a high wet modulus rayon. To the consumer, the main difference between ordinary rayon and polynosic is that the latter is MACHINE WASHABLE (and dryable)! And here we have a similar fabric in polynosic. 
Power  The force with which a fabric containing spandex (or rubber) springs back to its pre-stretched position. Generally, the higher the spandex content, the greater the power. 
Power  The force with which a fabric containing spandex (or rubber) springs back to its pre-stretched position. Generally, the higher the spandex content, the greater the power. 
Roll goods  I haven't heard this term for years, but it means textiles on rolls. We sell piece goods and roll goods. 
Roll goods  I haven't heard this term for years, but it means textiles on rolls. We sell piece goods and roll goods. 
Single Knit  A fabric formed with the stitches in a single plane. The common T-shirt is made from s single knit. 
Single Knit  A fabric formed with the stitches in a single plane. The common T-shirt is made from s single knit. 
Split  Broken yarn in one direction in a woven fabric. Usually a series of weft yarns broken between the same two ends. Quite common in tire cord fabric. There are too many splits in this fabric! 
Split  Broken yarn in one direction in a woven fabric. Usually a series of weft yarns broken between the same two ends. Quite common in tire cord fabric. There are too many splits in this fabric! 
Sueding  A finishing process during which the fabric is passed over abrasive rollers producing a (usually very short) nap. That fabric is sueded, not brushed. 
Sueding  A finishing process during which the fabric is passed over abrasive rollers producing a (usually very short) nap. That fabric is sueded, not brushed. 
Tex  The weight in grams of 1000 m of (filament) yarn. This cord is made from 94 tex Nylon. 
Tex  The weight in grams of 1000 m of (filament) yarn. This cord is made from 94 tex Nylon. 
Torque  The twisting of a garment, or part of a garment after washing due to forces in the yarn. A common problem in jersey T-shirts and the legs of demin jeans. One of the legs in my new jeans torqued! 
Torque  The twisting of a garment, or part of a garment after washing due to forces in the yarn. A common problem in jersey T-shirts and the legs of demin jeans. One of the legs in my new jeans torqued! 
Twill  A woven fabric with a diagonal ridge. Denim is a yarn dyed cotton twill. 
Twill  A woven fabric with a diagonal ridge. Denim is a yarn dyed cotton twill. 
Width  The distance between the edges of a fabric, generally measured as the fabric is rolled. What's the width? 
Width  The distance between the edges of a fabric, generally measured as the fabric is rolled. What's the width? 



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